Merlot and Sideways: How a Movie Changed Wine Forever
WWMD – What would Margaret drink?
Margaret Pearman, a certified sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers, curates the celebrated wine list at Charlie’s L’Etoile Verte. With years of experience curating award-winning wine lists, Pearman specializes in bridging classic varietals with modern tastes. For February, she revisits a grape once sidelined by pop culture and makes the case for its long-overdue return to the table.
Merlot at a Glance
Flavor profile: plum, cherry, cocoa, spice
Style: smooth, medium to full-bodied
Best alternative to: cabernet sauvignon
Food pairings: steak, pasta, roasted vegetables
In 2004 the release of the film Sideways had an unexpected and profound effect on the California wine industry — specifically on merlot. The movie, which follows two friends on a wine-tasting road trip through California’s Central Coast, not only entertained audiences but also altered the trajectory of merlot sales and the varietal’s reputation among American wine drinkers. Today merlot is experiencing a resurgence, reclaiming its place as a beloved and versatile alternative to cabernet sauvignon.
Sideways is famously remembered for a scene in which the protagonist Miles passionately declares, “If anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any [expletive] merlot!” This single line, delivered with comedic fervor, captured his disdain for the grape and, as a result, profoundly influenced consumer perceptions. Almost overnight, merlot seemed to vanish from wine lists and retail shelves. Sales of merlot in the United States declined sharply in the years following the movie’s release. Consumers turned to pinot noir, the grape variety championed by Miles in the film. California producers responded by planting less merlot and more pinot noir.
Despite its temporary fall from grace, merlot has always been a grape of exceptional quality and versatility. Let us not forget that the highly acclaimed Petrus is made almost entirely from the varietal. Traditionally, merlot is known for producing wines that are smooth, approachable and full-bodied, with flavors of ripe plum, cherry and subtle spice. It serves as an excellent alternative to cabernet sauvignon, offering a softer tannic structure and a rounder mouthfeel while still delivering depth and complexity. For many wine lovers its easy-drinking style and food-friendly character have always made it a staple at the table. Merlot may have gone sideways, but it never went away, and the comeback is tasting better than ever.
