Yellow Watermelon: Chef Bernard Bennett’s Secret Summer Ingredient
Yellow watermelon steps into the spotlight as a sweet, spicy and surprising star of the summer plate.
Chef Bernard Bennett of Okàn doesn’t just cook — he challenges expectations. Known for his innovative takes on familiar dishes, he gravitates toward ingredients that surprise, delight and sometimes confuse diners. Case in point? Yellow watermelon.
In a recent conversation, the 2023 James Beard Award semifinalist for Emerging Chef talked about the ingredients that set his menus apart. When asked about his signature blue grits, his answer was cheeky but revealing. “Because I’m fancy,” he joked. But beneath the humor lies a clear mission: to break from the ordinary. “We don’t do shrimp and grits because everybody does shrimp and grits,” he said. “I don’t do white or yellow grits because everybody does white and yellow grits. I don’t want to be everybody.” Then came the curveball: “Have you ever had yellow watermelon?”
That’s when he lit up. “In the summertime when watermelon hits, we’ll use yellow watermelon because people haven’t known that,” he explained, leaning into the ingredient with visible excitement. For most, watermelon conjures visions of red or pink flesh — but yellow watermelon flips the script. It’s unexpected, unfamiliar and exactly the kind of ingredient Bennett loves to champion.
One of his standout creations? A summer dish featuring crab and yellow watermelon, seasoned with berbere spice, coconut vinegar, green onions and a sprinkle of Maldon salt. “It was salty, had a little heat, a vinegary bite — and the watermelon was just such a great vehicle for it,” he said. “Not overly sweet but definitely not bland. That watermelon was my favorite summer ingredient to use last year.”
While yellow watermelon looks identical on the outside to its red counterpart, slicing it open reveals flesh ranging from pale yellow to deep gold. It’s not genetically modified — the hue comes from a natural lack of lycopene, the antioxidant responsible for the red color in tomatoes and traditional watermelons. What it lacks in color, it makes up for in flavor, with a sweeter, more honeyed taste and subtle notes of apricot.
Despite more than 1,200 known watermelon varieties, yellow watermelon remains a rarity. It’s not something you’ll often find at the grocery store — and unless labeled, the only way to know is to slice it open. That sense of mystery is something Bennett embraces. “People are scared of what they don’t know,” he said. “So I put a glossary on the menu. If there’s a word you don’t understand, maybe it’s in there.”
To Bennett, this kind of unfamiliarity isn’t a barrier — it’s an invitation. Whether it’s oxtail prepared his way or dips like Muhammara — “not red pepper hummus,” he emphasized — he’s committed to presenting food honestly and unapologetically. “I could call it that. But it’s Muhammara. I’m not going to dumb it down. People will learn.”
In Chef Bennett’s kitchen even the most unassuming ingredients are re-imagined. His food doesn’t just nourish — it sparks curiosity. And when watermelon turns up yellow, it’s not just a surprise. It’s a statement.
Grow your own
Missed out on yellow watermelon this year? Don’t sweat it. Next summer’s slice of sunshine can start in your own backyard. This golden-fleshed gem grows much like its red cousin, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil. Opt for a variety like Yellow Crimson or Desert King, and plant seeds directly after the last frost, or get a head start by starting indoors. Enrich the soil with compost and balanced fertilizer, and give the vines plenty of room to roam by spacing plants 3 to 5 feet apart. Keep the soil consistently moist, watering at the base to prevent mildew. As the melons begin to ripen, ease up on watering to concentrate their sweetness. With a bit of planning and a sunny spot, you’ll be enjoying your own honeyed harvest next summer.
