Pitmaster Robert Owens shares the complexities of barbecue
Smoking the competition
Pitmaster Robert Owens shares the complexities of barbecue leading up to his Seafood Festival appearance.
Story By Bailey Gilliam
“The amount of talent that comes through Seafood Festival is amazing. All of these different rotating chefs and talent come through. It’s just a way to get out of the restaurant and have a little fun with some friends and colleagues, share ideas, share ingredients or purveyors that you might be switching up or just talk shop. It’s my favorite event right now.”
– Pitmaster Robert Owens, Owens & Hull
Pitmaster Robert Owens recalls idyllic summers in Georgia with his grandparents, savoring freshly prepared, mouth-watering barbecue sandwiches. These fond memories laid the foundation for his culinary journey, leading to the opening of Grand Champion BBQ in Atlanta in 2011. Quickly it became a local sensation, with barbecue enthusiasts declaring it the unrivaled monarch of smoke-infused flavors. Owens’s dedication to accentuating the natural taste of each meat, coupled with his homemade, robust sides, garnered numerous awards and heightened attention for Grand Champion BBQ. His recent collaboration with Pitmaster Bryan Hull of Secret Pint BBQ birthed Owens & Hull, a new venture in Smyrna, Georgia, fusing Texas and Carolina-style barbecue, breaking traditional boundaries. This month Owens brings his seasoned expertise to the Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival, showcasing his barbecue prowess amidst a celebration of Southern heritage and cuisine.
Robert Owens’s culinary philosophy, centered on enhancing the inherent flavors of each meat complemented by his homemade, sumptuous side dishes, has garnered widespread acclaim for Owens & Hull in the Atlanta area. His culinary creations have been recognized for Best Ribs, Mac n’ Cheese and Beef Brisket by the Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Owens also was named runner-up for Best BBQ in Atlanta by Atlanta Magazine and was listed among the top 13 barbecue joints in the nation, as ranked by Zagat.
A blend of simplicity and complexity
Raised in a family with deep South Carolinian roots, Owens developed an early love for barbecue. His culinary journey began at 16 under the mentorship of barbecue luminary Dave Roberts of Sam and Dave’s BBQ-1. It was here that Owens learned the intricate science of barbecue, debunking the misconception of its simplicity.
“Everybody thinks you can get a pork shoulder or brisket anywhere, but you can’t,” he began. “What I do right now requires two sticks of wood every 20 to 30 minutes for 18 hours.”
Many factors go into barbecue that most people don’t even consider. There are so many levels of science: cook time, temperature, holding time, peak time, the wood type and density, the coal and even the spark. And then, on top of the external factors, it’s essential to consider how the animal was raised. Its diet, stress levels and how it was taken care of are some factors that affect the flavor. There’s nowhere to hide.
“In Japan sushi chefs spend eight years just on rice before they touch the fish,” he said. “It’s the same principle where he’s got a little bit of rice and a little sashimi and makes his nigiri. And it seems you’ll enjoy this one bite within a minute or so.”
Owens embraced this principle with utmost dedication in his barbecue methodology. Over a decade he meticulously refined the techniques of meat cutting, utilization and the harmonization of flavor profiles, achieving mastery in his craft.
“That’s the art with barbecue: you’re trying to highlight the protein, not over complicate it,” he said. “Our restaurant’s shortest cut time is 3 1/2 hours for an item, so everything just takes a lot of love and care.”
North Carolina, Texas and now Georgia?
Among barbecue enthusiasts, North Carolina and Texas are revered as the bastions of authentic barbecue. North Carolina’s fame rests on its succulent pork, while Texas is celebrated for its rich, flavorful brisket. South Carolina, though lesser-known, distinguishes itself with its unique mustard sauce. Yet, beyond these traditional powerhouses, a fresh wave is emerging, led by Owens, who identifies an innovative barbecue style blossoming in Georgia, potentially signaling a broader culinary evolution.
“What’s so fun about Georgia (and what everybody’s doing right now in the Southeast) is really having more of a melting pot where they can take the best of both styles and really combine and just learn from one another: from Rodney Scott to Ed Mitchell, to Goldies in Texas, to whomever,” he said. “We have the most educated market we’ve ever had, which has been a blessing for all of us.”
The blessing is that more people are understanding what quality barbecue really is. Even as recently as 2008, when Owens got into barbecue, the majority of people still didn’t understand fat content. “They didn’t understand it because they had been given bad brisket all their life,” he said. “So they only knew fat to be gelatinous and chewy and rubbery and not meat butter because people weren’t trimming the briskets or smoking them correctly.”
While this makes us wonder if we’ve ever actually had good barbecue, Owens says you won’t know until you’ve had it. “You think what you’re eating is fine until you have something at another level,” he said. “But then it’s about the hunt and the chase.”
This pursuit of perfection and deeper understanding of barbecue artistry, led by visionaries like Owens, is transforming perceptions and elevating the culinary scene across the South. It invites both connoisseurs and novices alike to explore beyond familiar tastes and dive into a world where tradition meets innovation. As this evolution continues, it’s clear that the future of barbecue will be as diverse and flavorful as its past, with Georgia emerging as a new chapter in this smoky, savory saga.
Presented by the David M. Carmines Memorial Foundation, the Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival (Feb. 19-25) is a celebration of the Lowcountry’s fishing heritage and diverse culinary scene. Experience Southern flavors with an array of events and dishes prepared by the region’s top chefs, mixologists and tastemakers. Join celebrated pitmaster Robert Owens for an exclusive Kegs & Eggs Sunday brunch, offering a unique blend of smoky barbecue and brunch classics from 10 a.m. to noon, Feb. 25 at Lincoln & South Brewing Co. Secure your tickets ($90) at hiltonheadseafoodfestival.com.
2024 Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival events
Purchase tickets at hiltonheadseafoodfestival.com.
Sip Don’t Slam: Tequila Facts and Fallacies
Tickets: $29
When: Noon, Feb. 20
Where: Holy Tequila
Details: Indulge in an exploration of tequila – unraveling the essence of what truly defines this iconic spirit.
Callawassie Island Home Tour
Tickets: Sold out
When: 2-6 p.m., Feb. 21
Where: Callawassie Island Club
Details: Enjoy an afternoon touring Callawassie Island and a selection of beautiful residences. Be treated at each stop with wine and food pairings.
Holy, Moles and Olea
Tickets: $135
When: 6-9 p.m., Feb. 21
Where: Holy Tequila
Details: This pop-up dinner celebrates the heritage of New Mexican culture, presented course by course. Prepare to be dazzled by the culinary talents of Chef Fernando Olea, the Southwest’s Best Chef of 2022 James Beard Award Winner. Chef Fernando Olea will team up with Chef Tim Nelson of Holy Tequila.
Zero Forks Given
Tickets: $125
When: 6-9 p.m., Feb. 22
Where: The Omni Oceanfront Resort
Details: Embark on a culinary adventure featuring seafood creations made with globally influenced flavors. Guests are invited into the oceanside courtyard where each course is expertly prepared by renowned chefs and mixologists.
Alexander’s Homegrown Supper
Tickets: SOLD OUT
When: 6-9 p.m., Feb. 22
Where: Alexander’s Restaurant + Wine Bar
Details: Enjoy a collaboration between renowned chefs Jon Buck, Charles Pejeau and Kevin Yeung, alongside the esteemed Elyse Winery by Josh Peeples. This evening will embody the heart of Hilton Head Island and the Lowcountry as the chefs share personal memories and culinary traditions. Indulge in a five-course feast showcasing the finest in locally sourced seafood, farm-fresh produce, and Southern-inspired cuisine.
Pig Pickin’ & Oyster Roast
Tickets: $150
When: 6-8:30 p.m., Feb. 23
Where: Coastal Discovery Museum
Details: Hilton Head’s best chefs, celebrity guest chefs and pitmasters prepare local shrimp, whole hogs, whole chickens, chopped barbecue and all the fixins’. Wash it all down with brews, wines, signature cocktails and live music.
Saturday Seafood Festival
Tickets: $15
When: 1-4:30 p.m., Feb. 24
Where: Coastal Discovery Museum
Details: The main event offers samplings from more than 100 food and beverage vendors. Enjoy live entertainment, the Iron Chef Competition, celebrity chef cooking demonstrations and wine, beer and cocktail seminars.
Kegs & Eggs
Tickets: $90
When: 10 a.m.-noon, Feb. 25
Where: Lincoln & South Brewing Company
Details: Renowned Chef Robert Owens of Atlanta’s Owens & Hull, formerly Grand Champion BBQ, and Pastry Chef John Cook from The Omni Grove Park Inn take the reins for an unforgettable family-style dining experience alongside a selection of Lincoln & South IPAs, pilsners, hard seltzers and more to perfectly complement the dishes.
