A journey into Chef Fernando Olea’s world of New World cuisine

Elevating culinary boundaries

Story By Bailey Gilliam

Originally hailing from Mexico City, the illustrious chef Fernando Olea, honored with the 2022 James Beard Award for “Best Chef of the Southwest” and the proprietor of Sazón in Santa Fe, has amazed diners since 1991 with his innovative take on contemporary and traditional Mexican cuisine. Olea crafts intricate flavors by blending indigenous traditions from Old Mexico with global ingredients. In February he brings his culinary mastery to the Lowcountry as part of the Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival. Before this renowned chef ventures eastward for a festival celebrating Southern heritage, culture and cuisine, let’s explore his culinary philosophy and catch a glimpse of what he has in store for this year’s event.

Breaking borders with food

Olea embarked on his culinary journey 33 years ago, resurrecting cherished family recipes, particularly his renowned mole recipes. “I incorporated flavors from around the world that I enjoy,” he said. “Food knows no borders, and it shouldn’t. Taste my creations, and you might think you’re savoring Asian cuisine. I don’t simply label my cuisine as Mexican; I call it New World cuisine. It’s my unique blend of flavors.”

To Olea food is an intensely personal experience. Each individual, family, restaurant, region and country has its own story to tell through its cuisine. A region’s culinary identity is a reflection of the preferences of its people. “When I teach a recipe, I always emphasize, ‘I’m sharing my recipe with you. What I’d love is for you to create your own version, because your creation will be the best one. Don’t let anyone tell you it’s missing this or that, because that’s not true,'” he asserted. “Recipes are deeply personal. Every family has cherished dishes, and every region forges its culinary dialect.”

While Olea refuses to pigeonhole his cuisine by region, he acknowledges the need for labels, and surprisingly, “Mexican” is not the descriptor he embraces. This decision arises from the misconceptions about Mexican cuisine. He recalled, “My restaurant’s former slogan was ‘Traditional and Innovative Mexican Cuisine.’ Unfortunately, some people associate Mexican cuisine with Tex-Mex, which, while delicious, is not the same. Mexican cuisine is rich and multifaceted, but sometimes, guests would cancel reservations upon hearing ‘Mexican’ and seek a different dining experience. So I made the change, distancing myself from ‘Mexican,’ despite my cuisine’s Mexican roots.”

For over three decades chef Fernando Olea has been enchanting the palates of Santa Fe with his extraordinary culinary creations, seamlessly fusing contemporary innovation with cherished Mexican traditions. Joining forces with acclaimed local chef Tim Nelson, known for his artful fusion of New American flavors and authentic Mexican cuisine, they are set to dazzle attendees with a captivating cooking demonstration. Mark your calendars for this culinary spectacle taking place on February 21 at Holy Tequila.

“My food is about inspiration. I think in flavors. To me, food is like an art. And I’m an artist, you know? My palette is the plate, and all my colors are the different ingredients in the kitchen.” – Fernando Olea

Deciphering Olea’s mole

Few dishes in Mexican cuisine evoke the intrigue of mole sauces, for which Olea is renowned. When discussing his celebrated mole sauces, he felt it was crucial to dispel some misunderstandings. Mexican cuisine, he explained, distinguishes between two types of sauces: salsa and mole. These serve distinct purposes. “Salsa is a condiment,” he clarified. “It graces tables for guests to enhance their dishes with a touch of heat. In contrast, mole is a dish in which we simmer meats, vegetables, seafood or anything else.”

Another misconception is that all moles contain chocolate and are exceedingly complex. Olea assured us that not all moles incorporate chocolate, nor are they universally intricate, with some recipes requiring just eight to 10 ingredients and shorter preparation times. He explained, “Mole sauce existed in Mexico before the arrival of the Spanish. The term ‘mole’ derives from the Aztec language, molli. However, the misconception about complex moles arose when the Spanish combined over 30 different ingredients, melding old-world and new-world ingredients.”

A sneak peek into Olea’s creations

Having attended the Seafood Festival last year, we asked Olea if he plans to feature mole again in the upcoming event. He chuckled and replied, “Of course, I’ll be preparing some mole sauce. It’s akin to attending a concert. The performers play their greatest hits. The Rolling Stones still perform ‘Satisfaction,’ one of their biggest hits. They may introduce something new, but ‘Satisfaction’ is a must. I view it similarly. If I believe a dish is one of my greatest, I want to showcase it.”

Olea graciously disclosed one of his signature dishes for this year’s festival, which he aptly named “Sopa de Amor.” He elaborated, “It’s a symphony of hot, cold, sweet, savory and a hint of heat. Essentially it’s a cream of roasted poblano peppers with a mound of blue crab — a juxtaposition of warmth and savory. This delectable base is crowned with a cool, sweet amaretto foam and adorned with a sprinkling of cinnamon chocolate.”

As he delved into the art of blending flavors and elements, Olea couldn’t resist offering a glimpse of the dessert he has in store. “Another dish I’ll be showcasing is what I call ‘Sweet Symphony,'” he said. “The name speaks for itself — it’s a dessert that dances gracefully on the palate. It starts with a bold burst of flavors at the front, progresses to the middle with finesse, moves to the back and concludes with a grand finale that sweeps from the back to the front. It’s a truly exceptional dish.”

“I always go to Hudson’s Seafood House on the Docks. During my last visit, I indulged in oysters every day — about three dozen a day. They were exceptional, and the shrimp was incredibly fresh too. I dined there at least six times during my four-day stay, as they serve the finest oysters I’ve had in the United States. Truly amazing.”  – Fernando Olea

Save the dates

Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival

When: Feb. 19-25

Where: Various locations

Details: Hosted by the David M. Carmines Memorial Foundation, the Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival is a celebration of the Lowcountry’s fishing heritage and culinary traditions. Savor the flavors of the South with contributions from the region’s finest chefs, mixologists and tastemakers. Join Chef Fernando Olea for the “Holy, Mole + Olea” demonstration from 6-9 p.m. Feb. 21 at Holy Tequila on Hilton Head Island. Visit hiltonheadseafoodfestival.com for more information.