Cooking with Grit: The Untold Histories of Two Iconic Southern Dishes

Dig into the untold histories of two of the South’s most famous dishes.

Story by Alea Wilkins

Southern cuisine wouldn’t be complete without a taste of Gullah fare. Its dishes, like the iconic shrimp and grits, are the hallmarks of modern Lowcountry food that is rich in both flavor and history. As part of Hilton Head Island’s annual Gullah Celebration, chef Sallie Ann Robinson will honor those classic recipes and their stories.

Robinson, a sixth-generation Gullah from Daufuskie Island, is internationally recognized for her culinary creations and books like Cooking the Gullah Way, Morning, Noon, and Night. To share techniques steeped in Gullah tradition, she’ll prepare shrimp, fish and grits live at the Gullah Celebration’s Rhythm & Flavors Festival on March 1 at the Coastal Discovery Museum. For an extra serving, guests can enjoy the same dishes at the Ol’ Fashioned Gullah Breakfast on Feb. 1 at Mitchelville Freedom Park. 

Ahead of the festivities, learn more about the origins of these famous dishes that promise a taste of Gullah culture in every bite.

Grits to get

Whether you’re preparing a savory bowl of shrimp and grits or serving them as a creamy side dish, these stone-ground options are guaranteed to deliver that authentic Southern taste.

Anson Mills (Columbia): Renowned for its heirloom grains, Anson Mills is a gold standard in the South.

Marsh Hen Mill (Edisto Island): This Lowcountry brand, formerly known as Geechie Boy Mill, offers exceptional
stone-ground grits.

Palmetto Farms (Mullins): A South Carolina favorite, Palmetto Farms produces high-quality, non-GMO stone-ground grits.

Charleston Favorites (Charleston): These stone-ground white grits are packaged in classic cloth bags and made from select Southern corn. 

Shrimp and grits

A highlight of modern brunch menus, shrimp and grits was born out of necessity, and only the Gullah had the regional knowledge to put it together.

As enslaved workers, the Gullah needed quick, simple meals that would sustain them for long hours of intense labor. Local Native American tribes taught them how to use ground corn as a base, and their daily catch from the rivers or ocean would be served on top, including shrimp.

For centuries the dish was passed down through families, but one of the first documented recipes for shrimp and grits appeared in a Charleston cookbook from the 1930s. According to an article from The Local Palate, the author credited his Black butler William Deas for the dish. Deas ate shrimp and grits “every morning during shrimp season as far back as he could remember.” 

Shrimp and grits remained a local secret until The New York Times profiled chef Bill Neal in 1985. The famous article covered Neal’s work as the owner of Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill, N.C., and included his rendition of the dish — souped up with earthy mushrooms and sharp cheddar cheese. Ever since, it’s been a staple of Southern cooking. 

“Shrimp and grits was and still is a favorite of many Gullah people,” chef Robinson said. “Our life was about tough love, hard work and good eating. Living off the land, creeks and rivers is a smorgasbord of rich and flavorful treats.” 

Fish and grits

Similar to shrimp and grits, the fish version was only widely spread in the past century despite its longtime prevalence in Southern communities. The American Fisheries Society wrote on its blog that Gullah fisherman began harvesting from the  Intracoastal Waterway as early as the 1600s. Along with shrimp, they topped their creamy grits with catfish, trout or anything else they reeled in.

Since fish and grits was so inherent to the Gullah and their environment, it was not officially published as a recipe until the early 20th century. The Post and Courier reported finding it in the Daily Press from Newport News, Virginia, under the title: “Fish ‘N’ Grits, Better Than It Sounds.” To Sallie Ann Robinson, that simplicity is exactly what makes it so everlasting. “It’s a recipe anyone can prepare the way they like it, and it’s the taste of the South,” she said.

While shrimp and grits established itself as a landmark of Southern cooking, fish and grits has mostly stayed a local secret. It’s not a common restaurant offering; rather, it’s a staple of Lowcountry home kitchens — exactly where it began.

The classic dish, along with shrimp and grits, is the result of generations of effort to preserve the unique culture of the Gullah people. Its heartiness embodies Southern comfort with Gullah history at its roots. 

“It represents the people in the Lowcountry’s way of life — goodness,” Robinson said. “The aroma and taste just soothes your soul.”

 LOCAL Life Test Kitchen

Southern fried fish and grits with tomato gravy

Warm, comforting and packed with Southern flavors, this recipe brings the heart of the Lowcountry to your table. Crispy, golden fish fillets rest on a bed of creamy, buttery grits, all topped with a flavorful tomato gravy that ties everything together.

Ingredients (fish) 

4 white fish fillets (flounder, sheepshead, speckled trout, whiting, etc.)

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt and pepper, to taste

Oil for frying

Directions

[1] Rinse the fish fillets and pat them dry. Soak them in buttermilk for about 10 minutes to tenderize. [2] In a shallow dish, combine cornmeal, flour, garlic powder, paprika, cayenne, salt and pepper. [3] Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. [4] Remove fish from buttermilk, letting the excess drip off, and coat in the cornmeal mixture. [5] Fry the fillets for 3-4 minutes on each side, or until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels and set aside.

Ingredients (grits) 

1 cup stone-ground grits

4 cups water 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese 

Salt, to taste

Directions

[1] Bring water to a boil in a pot. Stir in the grits and reduce to low heat. [2] Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the grits are tender (about 20-25 minutes). [3] Stir in butter, cheese and salt, to taste. Keep warm.

Ingredients (tomato gravy) 

2 tablespoons butter

1 small onion, diced

1 small green bell pepper, sliced thin

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup diced tomatoes 

1/2 cup chicken or vegetable broth

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon thyme

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 

Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions

[1] In a skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add the diced onion and bell pepper, cooking until softened. [2] Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. [3] Add the diced tomatoes, broth, smoked paprika, thyme, cayenne, salt and pepper. [4] Simmer the mixture for 10 minutes, allowing the sauce to thicken slightly.

Assemble the dish

[1] Spoon a generous portion of creamy grits onto a plate. [2] Top with a crispy fish fillet. [3] Ladle the savory tomato gravy over the fish and grits.

Taste the tradition 

The Hilton Head Island Gullah Celebration (Feb. 1-March 1) invites residents, regional visitors and travelers from around the globe to immerse themselves in the vibrant soul of the Lowcountry. Recognized as one of the Southeast Tourism Society’s Top 20 events, this celebration showcases the rich cultural heritage of the Gullah people through art, food, music and storytelling. From savoring traditional dishes to hearing firsthand accounts of Gullah life, every event offers a glimpse into this cherished culture that has shaped the Lowcountry’s identity. Here are two standout events that provide a taste of the history, traditions and artistry that define Gullah culture. For a full lineup of events and tickets, visit gullahcelebration.org.

We Still Rise: Ol’ Fashioned Gullah Breakfast

When: 10 a.m.-1 p.m., Feb. 1

Where: Mitchelville Freedom Park, Hilton Head Island

Details: Step back in time at the historic Mitchelville Freedom Park. This event celebrates the history of Freedom Day with a unique culinary experience and live performances that bring the past to life. Your ticket includes exclusive access to the 2025 Freedom Day Celebration, beginning at 11 a.m. 

Rhythms & Flavors Festival

When: 11 a.m.-3 p.m., March 1

Where: Coastal Discovery Museum, Hilton Head Island

Details: Celebrate the heart and soul of Gullah Geechee culture at this main event. Enjoy live music, storytelling and an array of authentic Gullah crafts and cuisine. The festival features artisans, food and performances that bring Gullah traditions to life. Admission is free for children 12 and under, and parking is complimentary.